Patagonia Part II: Torres Del Paine, Chile

I don't think I will ever fully come back from Chile. I will be forever gone with the wind of the mountains of Torres Del Paine. Forever. I am still in a trance. California seems so small now, so cramped (and I love California). But... Now I know, life is definitely somewhere above the mountains, where it breathes and cries, caught up in the beautiful violence of the weather.


When you are in Torres Del Paine, it’s like you’re floating along the surface of an alien landscape. It's an absolutely different world, different planet, different reality. The wild beauty forces you to consider things like ‘why did people stop being curious about the cosmos and stars, and humanity’s place in them?’  When I was there at sunrise with the 70 mile an hour wind in my hair, in front of the lake that like an ocean covered me with the blue cold waves, it was so freezing, I was mesmerized by the mountains and the snow on top of their peaks, the light slicing through the clouds, and the rainbows, and the moon. It all was rolled out before me like a celestial parade.  Can all of it exist in one minute, in one second? Yes, it can! It's indescribable... I felt so small in front of all of it. I felt like suddenly I am a galaxy myself. And there were tears on my cheeks non stop. The whole world was mine. It's a strange feeling. But it was there. For me. For us. Alone. Together. And I stayed on the edge of the cliff while wind was pushing me all around. And there was nothing to protect me from falling far into the icy lake and, honestly, I wish I was brave enough to jump. No fence, for once. Pure freedom. I was melting in every drop of water, in every beam of light, in every breath of wind. Time was surreal.  


When you understand... no, when you feel there is the whole cosmos available to you, and you realize you exchange it for something small like.. well you know what you exchange your cosmos for. We all do. Shame on us all. Comfort, stability, stuff. Betraying dreams. But when you understand this so clearly, with no doubts, that's one of the deepest pains. And it was nice to feel that pain. It means I am still alive... alive somewhere deep, but alive. Honestly, I wanted to jump onto the waters so much, to feel life with all that risk of losing it.  




Why did we decide to drive from Ushuaia to Torres Del Paine is a mystery to me. But here we were, leaving Ushuaia (click here to read about Ushuaia) early in the morning. The mountains were full of snow. I was so sad. It's difficult for me leaving places that change me. Places are like people for me. I wanted one more day there at the end of the world, hugging it, but then I still didn't know that my heart would be forever left in Torres Del Paine.  


So, we decided to drive. 14 hours or more. Yep. In one day. Do not repeat this. Fly. Fly to Torres Del Paine. First, as soon as you cross Argentina - Chile border, there is no paved road. Second, it's very long and very flat. And so many road works. Oh my God! No real roads, but they do work on them. Hilarious! Literally, you need to be on drugs to enjoy this hell of a drive. Unfortunately, we didn't have any drugs and the car was so old, we didn't have any radio or music. My husband was a hero to make that drive and remain sane.  


As soon as we reached our hotel "Hosteria Pehoe", the whole drive was instantly forgiven. This is the place to stay! In the middle of Pehoe lake, in the middle of the Torres Del Paine National Park. Breathtaking! Surrounded by the iconic mountains and all that nature. I couldn't believe my eyes. We arrived late in the evening and the weather was cold and rainy, and still, it was so stunning. So stunning!!!

Hosteria Pehoe

Hosteria Pehoe


While the rooms are simple and the food is simple, too, the view is everything. You are paying simply for the view. And it so worth it. There is nothing like waking up at 5 am and going to meet another sunrise in that magical place without driving (by the way park opens at 8 am, so if you are not staying inside the park, it means you won’t see the true magic.). It’s just there. Yes, the whole cosmos is right there early in the morning! Why would you need anything else? Incredible location! One of the most beautiful locations we ever, ever stayed!


The hotel is small, and they do have a good restaurant with a view, but you depend on the chef's mood and ingredients they have this or that day. Wine was great. Cocktails were good. If you are in Torres Del Paine, this is the place to be. And again, there is nothing like having a long long pier...  

Hosteria Pehoe

Hosteria Pehoe


One morning wind was so strong, it almost took Robert over the pier. We actually needed to almost lie down to cross that pier without being flown away. It was crazy. But I had a mission, I wanted that light above the mountains. This is how life should be every day. No fear. No limitations of any kind. 


We spent three full amazing days in that place. We hiked in such strong winds. Sometimes, it was scary. Adrenaline was pumping in the veins regularly. I was falling to the ground, holding onto the stones so I wouldn't fly away even though I had my backpack full of heavy lenses and camera.


Oh, and by the way, we came to Patagonia just with two backpacks and one mini carry on (we had that mini carry on only because my backpack was dedicated to photography equipment, otherwise, you literally don't need anything else there).  


We loved being there alone. With no people. We loved watching the wind pulling the water of many lakes up into the air. It looked like spirits dancing in the air. Gorgeous. Sometimes we would hear voices. I wouldn't understand a word, but I know there is something out there that was trying to communicate with me through the sound, through the touch of wind, through all that beautiful wildness in front of my eyes. It's astonishing to me how much you can understand about yourself just by being there. So many thoughts were running through my head. I wish I could be lost. I wish I could jump....  



But this was not the end of our adventure... To be continued...

Next... Estancia Cerro Guido

P.S. Please follow me of Instagram @nadyazim to see more photos from Torres Del Paine.